Settlement Cracks Should I be worried?

House Settlements come in four basic types. The first two types are uniform settlements and foundation fill settlements. The other two basic types of settlement are tipping settlements and differential settlements. By far the most common type of settlement, and unfortunately the one that produces the most extensive distress, is differential settlement. This type of settlement occurs when soil below the foundation develops some type of curved shape. When the building can no longer conform to such a shape, some failure occurs. We will concentrate on differential settlement. Identifying differential foundation settlement is an easy process. By sighting along normally straight building lines such as floor lines, masonry joints, or various fenestration, abrupt changes can generally be detected.


For this introduction, identifying settlements on the basis of wall cracks can be established by considering the following rules. First, soil settlements tend to be gradual over time. Thus, crack distress tends to have a V shape. The crack is larger at the top and diminishing to near zero near at the footing line. Up above is a picture with this type of V shaped crack. In a masonry wall the cracks tend to move along mortar joints, and fan into several cracks. This can be deceptive, but it is the sum of the cracks that will give you an idea of the magnitude of movement. There are times when soil moves abruptly. This most commonly happens with earth work around sewer and utility lines.

Abrupt soil settlements can cause the so-called shear-type failure pattern, which one element of wall simply moves vertically with respect to another element of the wall, without any rotation of either element. Usually this happens to a house where some abrupt change happens. For example a single room protrudes from the main house. Although not easy to see this picture shows this type of vertical movement. Keep in mind that almost all real world settlement will be some combination of settlement's types. Therefore, getting and example of just one kind of settlement on a wall is usually not possible.

The above settlement issues involve movement parallel to the direction of the foundation. An equally common settlement condition, one that eventually leads to extreme building distress, involves movement perpendicular to a building wall and foundation. Such movements can lead to a wall tipping outward from the building. While it is rather shocking to see a wall tipped one or tow inches out, the tip per se is not the most critical problem. Floor and roof joists can slide off there bearing surfaces with dramatic consequences. Rarely are soils so variable as to produce this type of differential settlement in a relatively narrow width. The most common causes of this type of settlement would be excavations made around the footings during construction and subsequently improperly backfilled, and water or sewage lines that have ruptured and erode soil away from the footing. Any time that tipping walls are involved you should seek the professional opinion of an structural engineer. Keep in mind that structural engineers will need time to study the conditions that lead up to the settlement event.

The best one could hope for with respect to settlement, is for the structural engineer to tell you that the settlement is only causing cosmetic damage to the structure. You are more likely though, to get an answer that your settlement will need to be addressed. Of course before any settlement issue can be addressed one would have to understand the reason of the settlement and if the settlement will likely stop over time. Therefore a structural engineer would need time to study the situation and rule out reasons for the settlement. This of course , would take time, usually on the order of 6 months to a couple of years. Therefore buying a house with major settlement issues should not be undertaken without proof from the seller that the issues have been studied and what actions have or will need to be taken to correct of stop the settlement issue.

One last note, it is usually not wise to try to straighten out a house that has suffered settlement. Usually with minor settlement, what you see is what you get. It can take years for a house to bend under these conditions and lifting a house generally will not reverse the cracks that have taken place. Jacking a house up usually creates other cracks and problems that could not be foreseen. For this reason, it is usually best to not try to straighten out your slightly settled house.

Aluminum wiring, Is it safe?

Aluminum wiring was commonly used from the late 1960’s until about 1978. It was introduced because it was less expensive than copper. It was not recognized until after installation that aluminum expands more than copper. This leads to the wire trying to move out from under the terminal screws. This is known as terminal creep. Also, because aluminum wire is softer than copper, electricians could easily nick the wire resulting in smaller wire diameter. The result of such nicking is localized hot spots. These hot spots reduce the ability of the wire to carry electricity safely. Lastly, the oxide that forms on aluminum wire is a poor conductor of electricity. This leads to higher resistance and temperature. Due to the problems associated with aluminum wiring, special components, designated Cu-Al were produced. These included electrical circuits, wire connectors, stove breaks, etc. Electrical receptacles were designed with the designation CO/ALR.
Another way some electricians have solved the aluminum issue was to use special connectors to join the aluminum wires to short “pig tails” of copper wire just before they connect to outlets. This is not recommended for two reasons. First, every connection added to an electrical system is another potential problem area. Second the addition of so many connections in an electrical panel can lead to overcrowding of the box.
As long as proper connections are used, and the connections are made without damaging the wire, aluminum wire is considered to be safe. It is permitted for use by many electrical codes, although it is not commonly used in homes anymore due to the adverse publicity it received in its early days of service. Aluminum is still commonly used by utilities in street wiring and for service entrance cables.
This is why it is important to get a home inspection from a licensed home inspector that is knowledgeable about such wiring. Aluminum is safe as long as it is connected correctly. Your new home does not have to be rewired at a costly expense.

Alzheimer’s and Parkinson’s

“Could Radon be the cause”
In a study conducted at the University of North Dakota, researchers discovered the presence of radioactive radon in the brains of non-smoking persons with Alzheimer's and Parkinson’s disease was ten times greater than it was in the brains of persons without any previous neurological disorders. Professor Glenn Lykken and Dr. Berislav Momcilovic assert their study demonstrates that indoor radon gas has the capacity to irreversibly infest the brain with the poisonous progeny of radioactive heavy metals.
University of North Dakota researchers are looking for more funding to continue their research. To access the study in its entirety, please go to www.radonnews.org or the Alzheimer disease and Associated Disorders Magazine.

What is wrong with Drivit?

In a word. Nothing and everything. It really depends on who you talk to. First of all, drivit, was a brand name of a certain type of exterior finish system. The correct term is called Exterior Insulation and Finish System (EIFS). There was a problem with some types of (EIFS) systems. It was originally thought that if water could not get into the system, there would not be any need to let the water out. Therefore trapped water could not leave the system and significant rot problems were noted. These problems were worsened with poor installations and maintenance. The new water management EIFS systems utilize the same techniques that the old cement stucco craftsmen used, however, better water membranes and flashings are available today. If you install a new water managed drainable EIFS system on your new home according to the manufacturer's specifications, you should have little or no water problems.

Developed in Europe in the 1950’s, EIFS were introduced in the U.S. almost 30 years ago. They were first used on commercial buildings, and later, on homes. Today, EIFS account for nearly 30% of the U.S. commercial exterior wall market. See figure 2 for the components of EIFS.
So what can EIFS do for me? First is energy efficiency. If you’ve ever felt the comfort of being wrapped in a warm blanket on a cold night, you have some idea of what EIFS can do for a home. EIFS literally wrap the exterior in an energy-efficient thermal blanket. By insulating outside the structure, EIFS reduce air infiltration, stabilize the interior environment and reduce energy consumption. By contrast, traditional “between-the-studs” insulation, no matter how thick, leaves “thermal breaks” or gaps where heat and cold pass more freely between the outdoors and the space within, at studs, wall outlets, wall joints, and elsewhere. EIFS can reduce air infiltration by as much as 55% compared to standard brick or wood construction. Since walls are one of the greatest areas of heat loss in a house, improvement in the wall insulation can be very meaningful in terms of energy conservation. Another point to keep in mind on new construction: due to the energy efficiency of EIFS, it may be possible to specify lower-capacity heating and air conditioning equipment without sacrificing anything in terms of interior comfort. Design flexibility is another advantage of EIFS. Skilled applicators can create all sorts of exterior architectural detailing that would be cost-prohibitive with conventional building materials. If you do choose a new drainable system, keep proof of it for resale. Buyers will want to know

Mold Basics

Molds are part of the natural environment. Outdoors molds play a part in nature by breaking down dead organic matter such as fallen leaves and dead trees, but indoors, mold growth should be avoided. Molds reproduce by means of tiny spores; the spores are invisible to the naked eye and float through outdoor and indoor air. These spores will begin to grow when they come into contact with something wet. There are many types of mold, and none of them will grow without water or moisture.

Do I have mold in my house? The answer is yes. All houses have mold. Only a few of these molds cause reactions. Indoor mold growth can and should be prevented or controlled by controlling moisture indoors. The two steps to eliminating mold are find and fix the water problem and second clean up the mold.
Can mold make me sick? Molds have the potential to cause health problems. Molds produce allergens, irritants, and in some cases, potentially toxic substances (mycotoxins). All mold seems to look blackish to the naked eye. So seeing mold cannot tell you what type it is. If you see mold and are concerned, then you should have a mold test. Testing starts at $200 and can go to the thousands of dollars. Research on mold and health effects is on going. The good news is that molds can be controlled.

Here are some tips on controlling water in your home. When water leaks or spills occur act quickly. If wet or damp materials are dried 24-48 hours after a leak or spill happens, in most cases mold will not grow. Clean and repair roof gutters regularly. Make sure the ground slopes away from the building foundation, so that water does not enter or collect around the foundation. Keep indoor humidity low. If possible, keep indoor humidity below 60%. Relative humidity can be measured with a moisture or humidity meter, that can be picked up at most hardware stores. For more information on mold e-mail a request to ncsinspections@comcast.net. A sixteen page guide can be sent via e-mail.

A home inpsection is not a repair list

The home buyer should be aware what the home inspection is- and what is isn’t. The report makes the buyers aware of the condition of the property, but is not a list of repairs that the seller is obliged to make. The seller is under no obligation to produce a “problem-free property”, and needn’t look at the inspection report as a mandatory repair list.
Once an inspection is completed, most repairs are subject to negotiation. The buyer usually requests that certain items on the report be addressed before close of escrow, and the seller usually agrees to some of these demands. However, this is the sellers choice, and not his obligation.
Sellers have the legal right to refuse to make repairs except where required by state law, local ordinance or the real estate purchase contract. A smart buyer will use the inspection report as a tool to determine which problems will be most pressing - and costly - and attempt to negotiate some repairs based on this information. If a problem compromised health or safety, a seller may be eager to address it to assure the sale is completed smoothly. Most sellers are very approachable about such problems as roofing, gas burning fixtures, electrical wiring or fireplaces.
The inspection is not a buy or run recommendation.
In fact, an inspector cannot legally give an opinion about buying the house. The inspector inspects a myriad of systems and the structure of the house. It would be impossible for the inspector to have complete and expert opinion on all areas of the house. There are times when a system does not run correctly and the inspector cannot diagnose the cause of the problem. This is when your inspector will recommend that a licensed and professional expert in the field be called in to further diagnose and remedy the situation. A good inspector will be open and honest about what he finds in the home. If an inspector tells you a system or component needs to be replaced due to a recall, the inspector should have the information readily available. All too often I receive calls about an inspector that told the buyer about a recall that never happened.
An inspection consists of a thorough visual examination of a home’s components. This usually includes foundation, superstructure, and accessible roofing systems. Heating and cooling systems are activated, plumbing fixtures are operated, a representative sample of electrical outlets are tested and a sampling of doors and windows are tried. The results are reported so the buyer will have a working knowledge of significant defects - but are not considered a repair list for the seller.